Showing posts with label Barcelona. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Barcelona. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Barcelona: I Was Here

At Antonio Gaudí's Sagrada Família. Gaudí worked on it from 1883 to 1926, and construction is still underway.


Studious, witty, budget-minded and a born storyteller, I always bring Rick Steves along (via library book) as my personal tour guide. I'll be quoting from him throughout my visit.

From Rick Steves' Spain 2007:

"Part of Gaudí's religious vision was a love for nature. He said, "Nothing is invented; it's written in nature." His columns blossom with life, and little windows let light filter in like the canopy of a rain forest."

Gaudí's Park Güell. On this day, a city-wide transit strike was in place until the early evening, which meant walking everywhere. I walked uphill to this park, and a total of 12 miles for the day (I had a pedometer on to track it). Phew!

Citadel Park at dusk.


Elegant elderly ladies everywhere walking with their dogs socializing in tree-lined squares. Barcelona's senior population is some of the most smartly dressed I've seen.


In Parc de Montjuïc, the Sardana dancers statue, celebrating a dance performed by the Catalonia community where people join hands and dance in a circle in sync with the drum taps.


Also visited was the Picasso Museum. No photos were allowed (the same goes for the Prado in Madrid and some other attractions) which I prefer in museums. I've seen too many people in museums take a photo of the artwork, then walk away without even having taken a second to view the art standing right in front of them.

Rick Steves fans will recognize Juan at the Pinotxo Bar in La Boqueria. Rick Steves says he loves to flash a smile and give a thumbs up, but he looked, well, busy. As soon as a seat cleared it was immediately taken.


Women shopping for fresh fruit and vegetables just outside the La Boqueria hall. Disappointingly, flimsy plastic bags are everywhere in Spain versus this more idealized way of shopping with a reusable tote.

Hope: bicycles for rent.


Depressing: birds for sale along La Rambla. Why hold captive a creature with the gift of flight in a tiny cage for one's amusement? I love the beauty of birds, and have an outdoor feeder; the birds have their freedom.

No birds or other animals hurt in the making of this vegetarian paella at the Organic Market in the back of La Boqueria.

Tapas time at Tossa: a vegetarian croquette.

Button mushrooms in garlic and olive oil, and stuffed olives.

Bread with crushed tomatoes and olive oil. All washed down with sangria, some of the best I had in Spain.

Lunching with seemingly all locals at Cal Boter. They have a 10 euros lunch (appetizer, entree, bread and dessert). I was told it was no problem to swap a vegetarian item for a meat one, but I was charged (the first of many times I had problems with the bill in Spain). In any event, this all cost about 12 euros.

After onion soup (no cheese and no egg), I had the vegetarian plate and shared a carafe of the house red wine. The waitress said wine was included, which it wasn't.

Sweet endings: fresh melon for dessert.


Next stop, Granada.

Thursday, October 14, 2010

A Go-Go to GOPAL

Upon visiting Barcelona's Las Ramblas (a little too touristy for my taste), I was searching for Juicy Jones, a vegetarian eatery recommended in my slightly dated Rick Steves' Spain 2007 travel guide from the library. I never made it.

Upon passing by this sign....

I was immediately drawn into GOPAL, a homey vegan eatery.

Check out the vegan charcuterie! In the states, look for soy chorizo at Whole Foods Market, Trader Joe's or increasingly in natural foods sections in the produce aisle (where I spotted it at Stop and Shop in northern New Jersey). Add it to Spanish rice, and serve with sangria, or use in Alicia Silverstone's soy chorizo tacos.

Hamburgers are everywhere on the menus of Barcelona. This version is cruelty-free. With a drink and...

potatoes bravas, a popular potato dish you'll also see on tapas menus. A humane and filling meal for 6.90 euros (one of three daily menus combinations offered in addition to the regular menu).

I feasted on one of their daily menus. After a cup of gazpacho soup (served pureed, not chunky, the latter is more typical in the states), I savored a hearty stew of eggplant and chickpeas with a slice of whole grain bread (at last, since white bread is the norm); a polenta square with broccoli; and, oh yes, a small dulce de leche crepe. Yum! All for 5.90 euros.

If these cupcakes can be vegan, why can't all cupcakes be?

So happy to find the animal rights community on my travels. Everywhere, in every language, someone is using their voice for animals. Compassion knows no borders.

Finding GOPAL and other vegan eateries (I sought out a few others with the help of HappyCow) is like finding an abundance of clean drinking water in a desert. I'm already used to being a dieatary minority, but in Spain I felt even more alone. I even had a few shrug when I mentioned vegetarian (never mind vegan). One waiter in Madrid told me, "oh we don't do that here." Do what, serve vegetables?

I am always happy to patronize an animal-friendly establishment, and if I lived in Barcelona, GOPAL would be a regular haunt.